Clips

Imagine standing ankle deep in the Gallatin River, the crystal clear water purling around your waders, arm extended in front of you—the fly rod an extension of yourself—as you carefully drop a stonefly nymph into a deep pool. Near the bottom of the river trout (maybe rainbow or brown) slowly eye your fly and consider biting.

But you’re doing this in the middle of winter when the snow clings to the steep cliffs above the Gallatin and blankets the round hills. You’re hunkered into your polar fleece, a cap pulled low over your ears. You shove hand warmers in your fingerless gloves as you scan up and down the river, and save for your guide, no one else is there.

“People are surprised to find out they can be successful fishing in the winter,” says Lone Mountain Ranch General Manager Ennion Williams. Lone Mountain’s guided fishing program runs year-round, with frequent trips all winter long.

“When I first started winter fishing I was the only one on the river, no one else was out there,” says Gary Lewis who ran the Fishing Program at Lone Mountain Ranch for fifteen years and still guides for them year-round.

“Forty to fifty years ago it wouldn’t be possible to fish in the winter,” Lewis recalls, “The equipment in general would not be suitable.” Without fleece, Gortex and insulated waders, standing in a 30 degree F river could be chilling.

“We’re fisherman, so we like to be comfortable,” laughs Williams. To that end guests utilize hand warmers and reheat with apple cider and hot chocolate throughout the day. And since about 85% of their winter trips take place on the Gallatin River (with the highway nearby) they’re never too far from the car if someone wants to warm up.

A perfect winter day according to Williams is in the upper 20s with clear, blue sky filling in the space between the canyon walls. Anglers peregrinate along the river, felt-soled boots clinging to wet rocks and ice, searching for that perfect hole or deep section where fish may be hiding out. On days like that it’s possible to get a winter hatch which Williams says is “quite a treat” and anglers can switch from flies that float beneath the surface of the water (wet flies) to dry flies.

In the winter, fish move to the slower, deeper sections of the river. The water is being cooled from the surface down—the opposite of what happens in the summer—so the deeper you move into the river the warmer it is.

Warmth in the winter is relative, of course. Williams says the coldest he’s ever measured the Gallatin was 29 degrees F. Normally the temperature hovers around 32-35 degrees F. The cozy (to a trout) temperature isn’t all that draws fish to the bottom of the river during winter, the slower current plays a role, too.

The sluggish flow along the bottom means the fish don’t have to fight as hard against the current, which is important because their metabolism slows down as the days shorten. But, just because the fish are languid doesn’t mean that they aren’t catchable.

The fishes’ food source declines at the same time as the trout become less active. That means, explains Williams, “they eat readily when they see the right thing.” The right thing is a good imitation of a mayfly, stonefly, or midge nymph.

Lewis points out that because fish slow down when its cold, anglers need to take extra care with them when winter angling. “Fish are pretty fragile and when the water is cold and you’re cold it is easy to be careless,” he says. If you play the fish too long, or don’t hold them long enough in still water before releasing them, the fish “have a tendency to die.” That’s why it can be nice to have a guide with you who is experienced in fishing Montana’s rivers all year.

One of the big advantages to fishing in the winter is there is less pressure on the river. The summer anglers standing shoulder to shoulder are gone and the open river persists. With less pressure, the river can be very productive.

“People are pleasantly surprised with how well they can do in the winter,” says Williams. Lewis concurs, “The fishing can be excellent and (the guests) may be a little chilly when fishing, but when it is all said and done they’ve had a great experience.”

Lone Mountain’s guests also appreciate the opportunity to learn about the mechanics of casting or want to perfect their cast. They enjoy discovering the trout lifecycle. But primarily, winter anglers cherish the experience of spending a winter’s day along a beautiful river.

Fishing with a guide as other advantages as well. “We make it east for them,” Lewis says. From tying and untying flies, to chipping the ice out of the guides, to handling the fish, Lone Mountain guides make sure their guests stay warm, dry and comfortable.

Winter fishing, like all outdoor pursuits, isn’t without its dangers and discomforts, of course. Lewis remembers a time when he and a client were sitting in the car warming up with some hot tomato soup. Another vehicle pulled up behind them and a man took off across the river alone. Upon reaching the other side, he slipped on the ice, hit his head and concussed. Had Lewis and his client not been there to take the man to the hospital in Ennis, he may have easily died from exposure. The moral according to Lewis, is to never fish alone, especially in the winter.

Fortunately, in southwestern Montana we get a lot of balmy winter days with temperatures in the 30s, 40s and 50s. “We take advantage of those days,” Lewis says with a smile. “Just being in the river and wading; the challenge of knowing the fish are there, that’s enough for most of us. Whether you catch (the fish) or not is another thing.”

Besides the Gallatin River, Lone Mountain trips occasionally venture to the upper Madison River between Hebgen and Earthquake Lakes, or around Reynolds Pass. Later in the season the spring creeks around Livingston become an excellent place to throw a line. The Lone Mountain guides even take guests as far away as the Missouri River near Great Falls.

“There’s a short window of time we can fish (in a winter day)”, says Lewis, “From about 10:00-3:00,” so a drive to Great Falls isn’t out of the question. “We let them know what they’re in for,” he laughs.

Most of the folks Lone Mountain takes fishing are first or second-timers, although they occasionally host more experienced anglers. “We try not to take more than two people per guide,” explains Lewis. That way each person gets the individual attention they need to get the hang of fishing in a short day.

“It’s a great way to take a day off skiing,” says Williams, It’s a perfect trip “for the dad that comes to Big Sky with his family and doesn’t want to ski.” Or the folks whose quads are burning from swishing down the slopes all week. In fact, while some of their clients are Lone Mountain Ranch guests, many others stay at Big Sky Resort and want to throw a different kind of Montana experience into their vacations.

So, imagine that day of fishing again. This time you are wearing long underwear, thick polypropylene socks and a few layers of fleece or wool under your winter jacket and waders. You cast your fly, an imitation of a mayfly nymph, perfectly into the deep middle of the river. The ice crunches beneath your feet when suddenly a native cutthroat trout rises and takes the fly. It makes those chilly fingers and icy nose well worth it.

Big Sky Magazine
December 22, 2006

Lone Mountain Ranch Nordic Center has 80 kilometers of groomed cross-country ski trails, and Hans Schernthaner has skied them all. In one outing.

“I thought it would be a real challenge to ski them all in one day,” Schernthaner recalls. He scoured the trail map and chose a route that would require the least backtracking, then waited for a call from Lone Mountain Ranch Director of Skiing, Herb Davis alerting Schernthaner to the perfect conditions.

That call came last January. With no recent snow, the groomers at the Ranch were able to pack firm trails. Both the skating corduroy and striding tracks were in perfect condition for fast, efficient skiing. Schernthaner and a friend started skate skiing at nine in the morning and, not including an hour lunch break, skied for eight hours. “It was a really nice feeling, it was really fun and I want to do it again,” Schernthaner says.

As Schernthaner pours over the trail map once more, looking for this year’s route, he has a lot of possibilities to choose from. The Ranch owns about 150 acres in the core of the trail system, and the rest of the trails wind through the private property of eighty different landowners.

Coordinating with so many landowners, and turnover in ownership as the original landowners sell their property and new people move in, can be challenging on occasion. But, most of the owners are great to work with according to Davis and realize the value the ski trails bring to their property.

“Many of the trails fall within the jurisdiction of the Big Sky Owners Association (BSOA),” says Mary Jane McGarrity, Executive Director of BSOA. “We agreed to give a certain amount of money to maintain and groom the trail system,” she adds. In exchange BSOA members receive a discounted annual pass. Many of the BSOA members have homes right on the trail system.

Jacqui Persons skis the trails regularly, as is one of those people who loves the trail system so much that she’s building her house on the golf course where the lower trails are laid. From the end of her street she can hop on the trails and head into the woods.

Whether she’s looking for a “gruesome grind” up Douglas-fir covered hills, or the exhilaration of screaming through a meadow on her way back down, Persons can usually find the type of terrain she is looking for. And with some helpful instruction from the experts at the Ranch, she helps coach local students at Ophir School how to cross-country ski, so they, too, can utilize the trails.

After twenty years of skiing at the Ranch, Persons keeps coming back because “there is a lot of good variety in the trail system,” It’s the partnership between the Ranch and BSOA that allow Ranch skiers access to such a variety of terrain including a trail that leads to the base of an alpine ski lift at Big Sky Resort.

Since BSOA manages community trails, whenever there is a new trail, McGarrity consults with Davis on grooming possibilities. “It’s a long term relationship and we’re eager to continue it,” says McGarrity.

Lone Mountain Ranch makes its own snow around the lodge. Davis calls this snow “more durable” as it is longer lasting than natural snow. The synthetic snow ensures coverage for the 300 season pass holders and 3,000 Ranch guests who use the trails each season. In all, Lone Mountain Ranch gets 14,000 skier visits a season, but even on a busy day, “It never seems crowded,” says Davis.

Schernthaner agrees, “I’ve never seen it crowded. Everyone spreads out since it’s so nice and big.”

With so much terrain, skiers can easily enjoy solo time, especially if they are willing to make the effort to get to the upper trails. With names like Siberia, Mongolia and Summit, it’s no surprise that these trails are far away and up high. At 8,242 feet, Summit tops out the trail system and provides excellent views before dropping down over 2,000 feet to the lower meadow loops. This Nordic center has more vertical feet than some alpine ski areas.

Lone Mountain Ranch isn’t just for Nordic skiers, though. Three self-guiding snowshoe trails totaling fifteen kilometers are maintained in addition to the ski trails. The snowshoe trails are packed by foot—no machines involved—so after each snowfall, Ranch staff don snowshoes and hike the trails packing the snow for easy walking.

In addition to skiers and snowshoers, four-legged critters visit the trails regularly; lynx, wolverines, ermines, pine martens, and deer have all been spotted by skiers and groomers. “Moose are almost a hazard, there are so many of them,” laughs Davis.

While most animals are busy hunting and grazing, the resident elk herd helps itself to the hay stash kept for Ranch horses. Yellow Mountain, which fills most of the view to the north of the trail system, is home to Big Horn sheep, and a Great Grey owl silently swoops through the trees around the Ranch lodge.

“Some people ask me what I like about it (skiing at the Ranch) and I tell them it’s the serene Nordic world,” Schernthaner says, “It’s just so mellow and relaxing; I can recharge my batteries.”

For skiers who want to do more than relax and cruise the trails, the ski school hosts lessons in skating, striding, and telemarking, as well as backcountry tours around the Ranch and in Yellowstone National Park. Certified PSIA (Professional Ski Instructors of America) ski instructors teach all the lessons, including women’s ski clinics, for those wishing to hone their skills or gain new ones. Schernthaner believe the skills he’s learned while skate skiing has improved his downhill skiing as well. “It helps immensely for downhill skiing because it is such a balancing act.”

Schernthaner sums up the feelings of many Lone Mountain Ranch skiers when he says, “They have an excellent trail system, they’re really professional about the set-up, the trails are in beautiful shape—it’s so great there!”

Big Sky Magazine
December 24, 2005