TravelingMel

The sun god wears ornaments on his large ears and sits next to the symbol for the moon on El Castillo’s frieze. Adorning the west and east sides of the 130-foot tall pyramid, the astrologically themed friezes draw the visitor closer and closer to the highlight of Xunantunich.

Xunantunich was the first Mayan site in Belize to be open to the public. Not large geographically, it contains one of the highest Mayan structures in Belize—El Castillo. From atop this limestone behemoth, breathtaking views span in every direction: the Belize River Valley, the Cayo District and Guatemala, just a few miles away. Additionally, the rest of Xunantunich is spread out below.

El Castillo at Xunantunich, Belize

The name means either “Maiden of the Rock” or “Stone Woman”, depending on who interprets the Yucatec dialect. Either name stems from an image of a woman in one of the friezes.

In the late 1800s the infamous Thomas Gann began “excavating” Xunantunich. In reality, he was digging up artifacts which are all now lost along with his recorded history. Following excavations were just as shady, with important Mayan artifacts disappearing and dynamite being used to none to gently to open up the structures. In the 1990s a concerted and detailed excavation began.

Archaeologists uncovered eight stelae (monuments) and two alters. Stelae are normally carved, but most of the ones found at Xunantunich are smooth and plain. It may be that they were once covered with painted or incised plaster that has since worn away.

There are three main sections to the ancient site: the ceremonial center and elite residences; the middle class residences; and the ballcourt complex where the Maya played a rather vicious game resulting in the losers’ deaths. The six major plazas are surrounded by more than twenty five palaces and temples.

And of course, there is El Castillo looming over the southern end of the complex. The partially excavated pyramid was at one point filled in by the Maya and another pyramid built on top, in typical Mayan fashion. The friezes have been restored and covered in plaster, both to protect the original work and to clearly display it for the visitor. In addition to the carvings of gods and astrological symbols is a beheaded man, which archaeologists are at a loss to explain.

The frieze on El Castillo, Xunantunich, Belize

Getting to Xunantunich is almost as fun as visiting the site. From San Ignacio take the bus eight miles east and get off at San Jose Succotz. From there take the hand cranked ferry across the Mopan River and walk almost a mile up the steep hill to the ruins. A new visitor center introduces Xunantunich to the visitor with models, a history of Mayan culture, maps, and an explanation of the archaeological work.

As Chocolate poles his boat through the water around Swallow Caye a doughy manatee nose suddenly pokes through the water next to the boat. These are the creatures that sailors once mistook for mermaids? They’re cute, but hardly sexy.

Lionel “Chocolate” Heredia has been guiding manatee tours since 1968, but his enthusiasm for these animals hasn’t diminished in the least. Belize is the last stronghold for the Antillean manatee in the Caribbean, thanks in part to Chocolate.

Chocolate discusses manatees from his boat.

The Swallow Caye Wildlife Sanctuary was established in July of 2002 after many years of tireless work by Chocolate and the Friends of Swallow Caye. They are listed on Belize’s Endangered Species Act as well. But, just because there is a declared sanctuary doesn’t mean the manatees are necessarily protected. Chocolate has had to put up his own signs in the water that read “Go Slow” and “Protect my home” under hand-painted cutouts of the cuddly beasts.

A manatee tour with Chocolate is a must-do for anyone staying in Caye Caulker. He is mentioned in every guidebook and extolled by everyone who has visited the island. But despite all the hype, the tour is worth it.

From Caye Caulker, Chocolate heads the boat towards Goff’s Caye 37 miles to the south. At Swallow Caye he turns off the engine and pulls out the pole. (Poles are used to maneuver the boats as engines can cut the shallow swimming manatees.) He and his co-captain slowly pole the little motor boat around the coves and mangrove islands looking for manatees.

Some of the islands are actually groves of red mangroves which can filter the saltwater and make it usable for themselves. The manatees swim through the roots of the mangroves to get into a lagoon in the middle of the island.

While looking for manatees, dolphins are often spotted, as are cormorants, white ibises and sea gulls. But it is the manatees that Chocolate wants to appear. And suddenly they do. When the water is clear these sea mammals can be seen from a distance, but when the water is murky after a storm they are invisible until they stick their noses out of the water to breathe.

Manatee or mermaid?

After floating around the manatee habitat for an hour or two, Chocolate heads the boat to Sergeants Caye for snorkeling, but it’s obvious that the best part of the day is over for Chocolate.

At the top of a hill near San Ignacio, in the Cayo District (Belize’s largest), sits Cahal Pech. These ruins of a Mayan ceremonial center were unfortunately named in the 1950s when archaeological digs were just beginning here and this area was a pasture. Cahal Pech translates to “Place of the Ticks”.

From San Ignacio it is a fifteen to twenty minute walk uphill to reach the ruins. The visitor center shows an entertaining and educational video about the excavation of Cahal Pech and the Mayan lifestyle. Also in the visitor center are Mayan artifacts and models of what the center looked like in its heyday.

Immediately outside the visitor center lies Cahal Pech, its well manicured lawns, plants in shades of pinks, yellows and every type of green imaginable. Geckos dart up and down large leaved bromeliads and birds chirp and sing in the trees.

The Mayan ruins at Cahal Pech

Pyramid temples, ball courts, palaces, and carved stelae (monuments) show evidence of some of the earliest Mayan settlements in Belize, likely beginning 3,000-3,200 years ago with continued occupation running through the Classic period. Around 1,200 years ago, the center was depopulated—earlier than other centers in Belize—but nobody knows why.

Excavation of the site began in the 1950s, but there are still large mounds yet to be uncovered. Passing these mounds, it’s interesting to try and imagine what still lies buried under the ever-growing jungle.

This site was pillaged repeatedly in the 1970s and 80s, and while some looters were caught and prosecuted, many were not. In 1988 archaeological work restarted at the site, ending the pilfering.

Walking around the quiet grounds it’s easy to imagine rituals and ceremonies taking place here. The average Mayan probably lived nearby in a thatch-roofed hut in the jungle and came to Cahal Pech for community occasions.

There are several caves upriver where archeologists have found evidence of rituals including the remains of corn, cacao and anato seeds. Skeletal remains of infants and adults indicate human sacrifices, probably to the gods of rain and agriculture.

Mosses cover some of the stone, making for a slippery walk in sections, and ferns sprout from old walls. Few people visit these ruins compared to nearby Tikal, so visitors often have the place to themselves to duck through short archways and peer into sleeping centers.

Fortunately, ticks are not a problem for the tourist at Cahal Pech—The Place of the Ticks—and quiet time to explore the past is guaranteed.

When the Maya lived here the area was more densely populated than it is today. But somehow, the Maya were able to sustain themselves in the Belizean and Guatemalan jungle in a way that present populations do not.

So, an education project began, based around El Pilar—a major Mayan city in the Central Mayan Lowlands straddling Belize and Guatemala. Academics and locals worked together to recreate and utilize Mayan Forest Gardens.

One such forest garden is owned by Don Berto Cocom in Bullet Tree Falls, Belize. Known as “The Old Man” by locals, Don Berto once cleared his land of native vegetation and planted palm trees in its place. He soon found himself begging his neighbors for the native forbs and plants that he depended on, both for food and medicine.

Don Berto

Then, thirty-five years ago, Don Berto replanted half his land with native plants. Like ancient forest gardens, Don Berto’s has an open canopy to let in light, but still retains many trees.

Now his Masewal Forest Garden and Medicine Trail is open to the public. Don Berto leads visitors along the trail, stopping at almost every plant to explain its ancient and current medicinal uses. The trail winds through thick secondary forest and open vistas.

Enrty sign at Masewal Forest Garden

The loop trail passes through an old Mayan quarry and several unexcavated Mayan mounds. Don Berto has found many projectile points on his property which he has collected and displayed under the thatched roof of his chair-making workshop.

As it is with forests in Central America, there are many, many mosquitoes. Fortunately, the leaves of a particular tree can be squished up and rubbed on a bite to relieve the itching. But maybe as a joke to himself, Don Berto does not reveal this tree until the end of the hour long walk.

Now Don Berto finds more use for his forest garden than he did for the palm tree plantation and he takes that knowledge to local school children, so that they too can remember the ways of their ancestors. And maybe one day, the area will be able to sustainabley support the large population that it did during ancient Mayan times.

Wild Ginger at Masewal Forest Garden

We stayed at Cahune Palms River Cabanas, which was very nice. Bring a flashlight, it is hard to find the bathroom at night!